“I am deeply awed by all of you for creating history here. History is ambivalent. There are facts, but facts are useless until you make something of them. We know, and we knew for a long time, that there was an Elk Run Church… but it is thanks to you and all your volunteers that have actually turned this into a reality…. It can only grow as time progresses.”
—Colonial church historian Carl Lounsbury, Williamsburg Foundation
Elk Run Church Area History
Early History
The Mannahoac Indians lived in several small communities in Virginia’s northern piedmont area, above the falls of the Rappahannock River as far upriver as the Rapidan River. They were allies of the Monacan Indians to the south, and like the Monacan they spoke a Siouan language. The Mannahoac initially confronted Captain John Smith when he explored the Rapphannock River in 1608. Using the information they gave him, Smith mapped three Mannahoac towns on the map of Virginia he published in 1612.
Like most Virginia Indians at the time of English contact, the Mannahoac farmed, hunted, fished, and supplemented their diet with fruits and nuts they gathered. Little information about them remains, as they successfully avoided European contact for decades.
Accounts from early European visitors indicate that the Mannahoac were no longer living in this area by the late 1650s. It is likely that they moved due to increasing attacks from Iroquoian speaking tribes from the north, such as the Susquahannock. Some of them may have joined the Monacan to the south. They may also have suffered from exposure to English borne diseases. [1]
Elk Run Village
The first English settlement of the Elk Run Valley took place in the late 1600s, with more settlement taking place from 1710 to 1759 as European settlers began moving into this region of Fauquier County in the early 1700s. With the establishment of Hamilton Parish in 1730, there were several hundred people living in the Elk Run vicinity of northern Virginia. A wooden Chapel already existed prior to 1744 when Prince William Minute Books makes note of road repairs being done in front of the Elk Run Chapel. This wooden church structure served Anglican communicants in Elk Run and provided pastoral care as well as secular administration for this active frontier community.
The Fry-Jefferson Map, first published in 1753 and again in 1755, was the first definitive map of Virginia in the 18th century. It clearly showed the important location of the Elk Run Church on the colonial frontier.
The location of the Elk Run Church became important. The church was located close to the Shenandoah Hunting Path, or the Falmouth Road: “this was a cross roads of local importance at which the road from the Elk Marsh settlement to the court house, then of Prince William County, crossed the Falmouth Road and at which the latter road was joined by the “German Path’, passing south from Germantown.” [2]
This important crossroads was also the probable site of Hardin’s Ordinary or inn. [3] Mark Hardin/Harding was first granted land in the Elk Run Valley in 1722, but he had settled here earlier, purchasing fifty acres in 1707 in Northumberland County, receiving two more land grants in 1716, both outside of the Elk Run Valley, but close by in the Great Marsh, or Rappahannock Marsh. The land granted to “Mark Harding of King George Co. 642 A. on Elk Run in Stafford Co.” on March 4, 1722/23 is probably the site of the ordinary that was established by his son, Martin Hardin, on Muddy Hole Branch. [4] Martin inherited 210 acres of this land in 1735 and established his ordinary in August, 1752. [5] The ordinary is described as such: “Another early ordinary [in Fauquier] was…kept by Martin Hardin on the Shenandoah Hunting Path, or Falmouth Road, one and a half miles north of Elk Run Church.”
The importance of the inn, or ordinary as they were called in Virginia, is conveyed in a letter written by a traveler that stayed in Fauquier in an ordinary along the Shenandoah Hunting Path: “Ordinaries are easily identified by the great number of miscellaneous papers and advertisements with which the walls, doors, and full length porches of these public houses are plastered, generally the more of such bills to be seen on a house, the better it will be found to be. In this way the traveler is afforded a many sided entertainment and can inform himself as to where the taxes are heavy, where wives have run away, horses have been stolen, or the new Doctor has settled.” [6]
Elk Run was a stopping point, for both rest and supplies, for military and militia during the French and Indian War (1754-1763) and the Revolutionary War (1775-1781). [7]
The Elk Run Anglican Church
First established prior to 1744 as a “wooden chapel,” the Elk Run Church was important because it was the local parish that everyone was required to attend once a month by colonial Virginia law, even if they had their own worship services such as Germantown which was located less than ten miles from the Elk Run Church and within its official Hamilton Parish boundary. The Church served respectively as a governing and administrative body under British colonial rule, and the bustling village of the 1750s boasted a tavern, a blacksmith shop, an ordinary, and was a stopover point for travelers going north or west in the constant expansion into what later became Fauquier County in 1759.
One reason church attendance was required in the colony was that this was the place where important government notices were posted. Marriages in Virginia took place in the established church until its disestablishment in the course of the American Revolution.
First Minister
The first permanent minister of the Elk Run Church was the Rev. James Keith, a native of Scotland and probably a graduate of a Scottish university. In 1729 he was ordained by the Bishop of London and received the King’s Bounty to pay his passage to Virginia. Initially he served a church on Richard Randolph’s plantation on the James River in Henrico County until 1733. The Randolph family opposed his marriage to Mary Isham Randolph and may have forced his resignation.
The couple married and Keith became minister of Hamilton Parish on the frontier. It was probably on the glebe (parish farm and minister’s residence) that their eight children were born. In 1746, the parish wardens bought a new glebe on Licking Run in Germantown, and Keith acquired additional land nearby.
Their eldest daughter, Mary Randolph Keith, married Thomas Marshall and lived on land acquired from the Fishbacks in Germantown. There their eldest son, John Marshall, was born, who later became Chief Justice of the United States Supreme Court. James Keith continued as the rector of Hamilton Parish until his death sometime in late 1752 or early 1753, leaving his widow with eight children between the ages of four and eighteen. His will was proved in Prince William County, as Fauquier County had not yet been formed. [8] For a detailed biographic sketch click on Rev. James Keith.
The church building in which Rev. Keith initially served was a “Chapel of Ease,” probably frame, as was typical of Anglican chapels, not log. The construction of the imposing brick cruciform church that replaced the chapel was completed in the late 1750s. Its foundation was uncovered by archaeological work between 1999 and 2006. This would have been the most impressive structure at that time in this area that is now southern Fauquier County, and was noted on the important 1755 Fry and Jefferson map of Virginia.
It was the center of a thriving community that included not only Hardin’s Ordinary, but a blacksmith shop, and a tavern. Sometime after 1786 with the disestablishment of the church in Virginia and introduction of complete religious freedom, the church began to decline. [9]
See an overview of early Virginia Anglican Church History Highlights.
The 19th Century
As the village grew and agriculture flourished, a post office was established in 1803. The church, however, once the very landmark of the community, fell into disuse after the Revolutionary War and the separation of church and state.
Without a minister to hold services, beginning at some point around 1800, the church fell into further disuse and disrepair. Former members had joined Baptist or Methodist congregations that abounded in the new era of religious freedom.
Virginia’s future Bishop William Meade wrote in his 1857 book that he first saw the church around 1811 and stated that “It was a substantial brick church – cruciform, I believe. I am not certain that the roof was on it when I first saw it in 1811. Its walls continued for many years after this, and I saw them gradually disappear during my annual visits to the convention.” [10] Neighboring farmers and homeowners were using the church as a source of materials for their own building projects.
Early 20th Century
By the early 1900s, Elk Run was a considerably smaller place but still had three general stores, a tavern, and a post office. The post office closed in 1907 and moved to the Midland community further north. A one-room school was still in use in Elk Run until circa 1925. [11]
Current History
The re-discovery of Fauquier County’s First Anglican Church in Elk Run began in December 1998 when a neighbor started clearing brush on the Elk Run property. See article. Less than a year later, members of St. Stephen’s Episcopal Church in Catlett in collaboration with St. James’ Episcopal Church in Warrenton and local citizens began to uncover the remains of what was the first brick church in Fauquier County’s mid-1700s frontier. Until then, the church foundation and artifacts had been hidden from view for about 170 years.
The Elk Run Church Site Preservation Committee’s goal was to preserve the 1740s Elk Run Anglican Church site and its history so that future generations would have knowledge of its past and an appreciation of our forefathers’ contributions to the settlement of Fauquier County. This southern Fauquier County site is significant because it was the first brick cruciform Anglican Church site established in what was the County’s mid-1700’s frontier area.
The pre-revolutionary brick cruciform structure was built in the 1750s during the ministry of its first Rector, the Reverend James Keith. Mr. Edward Parry Browning III, a descendant of the Reverend James Keith, generously deeded the approximate 100 foot by 100 foot lot to St. Stephen’s Episcopal Church on June 23, 1999. [12] This was done after Mr. Browning received a preservation plan and assurances that this property would be preserved as a historic site. The importance of this site also was noted in the initial Historic Road Sign Marker dedication address in October 2000 when Dr. Carl Lounsbury, Director of the Williamsburg Foundation’s Architectural Department and Colonial Church Historian, commended the Committee stating: “I am deeply awed by all of you for creating history here. History is ambivalent. There are facts, but facts are useless until you make something of them. We know, and we knew for a long time, that there was an Elk Run Church… but it is thanks to you and all your volunteers that have actually turned this into a reality, adding another chapter to Virginia’s Colonial History. It can only grow as time progresses.”
The all-volunteer archaeological effort was conducted from November 1999 until October 2006 exposing the heretofore unknown stone foundation, laid down in the 1750s in the form of a Greek cross. Numerous artifacts came to light, including Indian arrowheads, handmade nails, ceramic fragments, early coins, brick and glass. The archaeological effort at Site 44FQ179 was directed by volunteer Archaeologist, Dr. John Eddins, and included local residents, church members, grade school, high school and college students, Boy Scout troops, and visitors from outside the county and the state. Ultimately, over 54 units were excavated by the volunteers. Details can be found in the October 15, 2018 Archaeology Summary Report.
A total of 129 volunteers provided over 5,803 hours of service between 1999 and 2006. Conversion of the archaeological site to a Historical Church Park started in November 2006. The construction of a Mini-Museum over an excavated segment of the old Church foundation was completed in August 2010.
St. Stephen’s Episcopal Church held a Dedication Ceremony for the new Elk Run Historical Church Park Mini-Museum building on November 14, 2010. A short church service was held within the outline of the old Church foundation for the first time in over 200 years. Officiating at the Dedication was The Rt. Rev. E. (Ted) Gulick, new Assistant Bishop of the Diocese of Virginia. About 1,631 volunteer hours of service was provided from late 2006 until the end of 2010 to complete the construction of the Museum and related supporting activities. Details on the establishment and evolution of the Elk Run Museum can be viewed in its October 15, 2018 Report.
Guided by the premise that a fine brick colonial church would possess an attached cemetery, deed research (chain of title) revealed that on October 18, 1751, two acres of land were purchased (Indenture i.e. Deed) allowing adequate land for a cemetery.
A deed and survey of adjacent property filed on 15 September 1942 in the Fauquier County Courthouse, cited the adjacency of “the old cemetery lot” and added documentation and credibility to the premise. Interviews with local residents were undertaken and revealed that tombstones were seen earlier in the mid-1900s.
The adjacent Elk Run Church Cemetery had changed owners over the years [13] but on November 20, 2011, William C. Patton, Jacqueline E. Patton and Christina A. Patton graciously donated the property to St. Stephen’s Episcopal Church so that it could become part of the Elk Run Historic Church Park and held in perpetuity.
The acquisition of this approximate 100 ft. by 100 ft. Cemetery property adds to the historical significance of the Elk Run Church Site, adding 11,168 sq. ft. to our historic site for a total of 20,770 sq. ft. A new Cemetery Interpretative Sign summarizing its discovery was designed and donated by Sarah Gulick and was also unveiled on 20 November.
The Museum’s goal is to depict the history of the area (Native Americans and settlers), the Church and its first Minister, the seven year archaeological effort, and its conversion to a Historic Church Park. The present day Elk Run Church Site Historic Park and Museum is under the stewardship of St. Stephen’s Episcopal Church in Catlett, Virginia and is leased to Fauquier County Parks and Recreation for maintenance and operations. The Lease was executed on July 1, 2019 so the County can make the Site more frequently accessible to County residents and tourists. [14]
- Narrative on Mannahoac Indians was provided by Deanna E. Beacham, Virginia Council on Indians, Office of the Governor, primary source material for the narrative came from sources listed below and edited by Edward W. Haile:
1996 England in America: The Chesapeake Bay from Jamestown to St. Mary’s City, 1607-1634. Towns from Smith and Zuniga maps on a modern base map. Dietz Press, Richmond, Virginia.
1998 Jamestown Narratives: Eyewitness Accounts of the Virginia Colony: The First Decade 1607-1617. Round House, Champlain, Virginia. (John Smith’s writings are included.) - Harry C. Groome and Harry Connelly Groome, Fauquier During the Proprietorship: A Chronicle of the Colonization and Organization of a Northern Neck County; (Fauquier Co., Virginia; Regional Publishing Company, 1927), p. 200.
- Fairfax Harrison, Landmarks of Old Prince William, A Study of Origins in Northern Virginia in Two Volumes, (Berryville, Virginia; Chesapeake Book Company; 1964), p. 514.
- Gertrude E. Gray, Virginia Northern Neck Land Grants, Volume I: 1694-1742; (Baltimore, Maryland Reprinted for Clearfield Company by Genealogical Publishing Co., 2008), p. 72 Ruth and Sam Sparacio, Prince William County Order Book Abstracts, 1752-1753, (Antient Press), p. p. 47.
- Ruth and Sam Sparacio, Prince William County Order Book Abstracts, 1752-1753, (Antient Press), p. 47.
- Washington, George, 1732-1799. The writings of George Washington from the original manuscript sources: Volume 1 Electronic Text Center, University of Virginia Library.
- Groome and Groome, p. 197.
- Gail Raney Fleischaker, (1) “Reverend James Keith and the Elk Run Church,” https://ststephenscatlett.org/elkrun/; (2) See “Correcting and Expanding the Record of the Rev. James Keith of Hamilton Parish,” Magazine of Virginia Genealogy, Volume 55, November 2017, Number 4, pp. 257-276, e-mail: gailflei1@gmail.com; and Joan Gunderson, The Anglican Ministry in Virginia, 1723-1766: A Study in Social Class (New York and London: Garland Publishing, Inc., 1989 p.262.
- Barbara Price, Ed Dandar & Katharine Brown, Elk Run Anglican Church, 300th Anniversary of 57th Annual Germanna Conference & Reunion, Memorial Foundation of the Germanna Colonies in Virginia, Inc., July 2014, p. 13.
- Bishop William Meade, Old Churches, Ministers, and Families of Virginia, V0l. II: pp.216-218. Philadelphia: J.B Lippinott & Co., 1857.
- Helen Green (as told by). History of Elk Run. [United States]: n.p, December 1994.
- Fauquier County Courts Records. Deeds: April 5, 1940, the 100’ x 100’ plot of Elk Run Church was sold by H.A. Hansbrough to S.K. Browning, uncle of E.P. Browning of Winchester, Virginia, who later received the property from his uncle, and later deeded the property to St. Stephen’s Episcopal Church on June 23, 1999, for preservation of the Old Elk Run Church site. Warrenton, Virginia: n.d.
- Deed research by Phyllis T. Scott in the land records of Fauquier Counties, April 1, 2002 confirmed the existence of an adjacent cemetery.
- Edward F. Dandar Jr., Elk Run Current History, 1999-2019, Elk Run Anglican Church Site Preservation Committee Documents.
- Edward L. Bond and Joan R. Gunderson, “The Episcopal Church in Virginia,” pp. 164-214, Virginia Magazine of History and Biography, Vol.115, No. 2, published Quarterly by the Virginia Historical Society, 2007.
- Peters, Joan W., CG, “Brent Town & the Elk Run Valley A History: Volume One: From Acquisition to Settlement 1688-1800,” and “Brent Town & the Elk Run Valley A History: Volume Two: The Families and Homes 1579-1805,” Fairfax, Virginia: Spectrum Creative, 2010.
- Additional photos of historic figures supplied by the Library of Congress.